Care Guide

A fine gemstone can last for generations — the sapphires in ancient Roman jewellery are as brilliant today as they were two thousand years ago. But this durability is not unconditional. Gems can be chipped, scratched, dulled, or chemically damaged by everyday activities and improper storage. Understanding how to care for your gemstone jewellery is essential to preserving both its beauty and its value.

The rules vary by gem type, because different gemstones have very different hardness, cleavage, and chemical sensitivity. A care routine that is perfectly safe for a sapphire ring could damage an emerald or opal.

Understanding Hardness and Durability

Hardness — measured on the Mohs scale — determines a gem's resistance to scratching. Gems below Mohs 7 can be scratched by quartz dust, which is present in everyday household dust. This means that pearls (Mohs 2.5–4.5), opals (Mohs 5.5–6.5), and moonstones (Mohs 6) require significantly more careful handling than sapphires (Mohs 9) or rubies (Mohs 9).

However, hardness is not the same as toughness. A gem can be very hard but still brittle if it has perfect cleavage — the tendency to split along specific crystal planes. Topaz (Mohs 8) has perfect basal cleavage and can be split by a sharp blow even though it is very hard. Emerald (Mohs 7.5) is hard but its rich inclusions make it more brittle than its hardness suggests. Diamond (Mohs 10) can be cleaved by a skilled diamond cutter precisely because it has perfect cleavage in four directions.

Daily Wear Guidelines by Gem Type

Sapphire and Ruby (Mohs 9) are the most durable coloured gems for daily wear. They can withstand most everyday activities, resist scratching effectively, and are not damaged by water, soap, or mild cleaning agents. They are ideal for rings worn every day. Remove sapphire rings before gardening or heavy manual work to avoid hard impacts to the setting.

Emerald (Mohs 7.5) requires more care than its hardness suggests. Most emeralds are fracture-filled with oil or resin — exposure to ultrasonic cleaners, steam, or strong solvents (including acetone and alcohol) can dissolve the filling and permanently damage the stone's apparent clarity. Emerald rings should be removed before household cleaning, swimming, and any activity involving chemical exposure.

Alexandrite and Cat's Eye (Mohs 8.5) are very durable and suitable for daily wear in rings and pendants. They are not chemically sensitive and can be cleaned with mild soap and water. Their high hardness makes them resistant to scratching in normal wear.

Moonstone (Mohs 6) is relatively soft and has two directions of perfect cleavage — making it vulnerable to both scratching and chipping. Moonstone rings should be reserved for occasional wear rather than daily use. Store separately from harder gems that could scratch it. Avoid ultrasonic cleaning entirely.

Opal (Mohs 5.5–6.5) is the most delicate of commonly set gems. It contains water — up to 20% by weight — and can crack if it dries out rapidly (a phenomenon called crazing). Keep opal away from heat sources, strong sunlight, and dry environments. Never use ultrasonic or steam cleaners on opal.

Pearl (Mohs 2.5–4.5) is extremely soft and sensitive to acid. Perfume, hairspray, and even perspiration can damage pearl's nacre over time. The rule with pearls is: put them on last (after applying perfume and cosmetics) and take them off first. Wipe pearls with a soft damp cloth after each wearing. Never use any chemical cleaner.

Cleaning Your Gems

For most durable gemstones (sapphire, ruby, alexandrite, spinel, topaz, garnet), the safest and most effective cleaning method is warm water with a small amount of mild dish soap, applied with a soft toothbrush. Gently scrub around the setting and under the stone where grease and soap residue accumulate. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and dry with a soft lint-free cloth.

Ultrasonic cleaners are safe for sapphires, rubies, and diamonds that are not fracture-filled and have no significant inclusions. They should not be used for emeralds, opals, pearls, moonstones, or any gem that is fracture-filled or has surface-reaching inclusions.

Storage

Storing gems correctly prevents scratching — the most common form of damage to jewellery in a collection. Each piece should be stored separately, in individual soft pouches or compartments of a jewellery box. Never pile gemstone jewellery together in a drawer or pouch — diamonds will scratch everything else, and harder gems will scratch softer ones.

Take your fine jewellery to a trusted jeweller once a year for a professional cleaning and inspection. Settings loosen over time, and a loose prong caught early is far less costly than a lost stone discovered too late.

Disclaimer: Care recommendations are general guidelines. Specific gems and settings may have individual requirements — consult a professional jeweller for advice on particular pieces.